Le #SemMode organise un nouveau colloque international qui se tiendra à Paris les 13 et 14 octobre 2017: « Moving Beyond Paris and London: Influences, Circulation, and Rivalries in Fashion and Textiles between France and England, 1700-1914 » / « Au-delà de Paris-Londres : influences, circulations, rivalités dans la mode et le textile. France-Angleterre, 1700-1914 ».

Avec deux intervenantes: Leslie Miller (V&A) and Zara Anishanslin (University of Delaware)

Keynote Speakers: Lesley Miller (V&A) and Zara Anishanslin (University of Delaware)


Lesley Miller is Senior Curator of Textiles and Dress (before 1800), in the Furniture, Textiles and Fashion Department at the Victoria & Albert Museum and Professor of Dress and Textile History at the University of Glasgow. She led the concept team for the renovation and reinterpretation of the Europe 1600-1815 Galleries (opened 2015), during which she was Principal Investigator at the V&A on the HERA-funded project ‘Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Europe 1500-1800 (2010-13). One outcome was the publication of her book Selling Silks. A Merchant’s Sample Book 1764(2014), in which she reveals aspects of her research on design and commerce in the 18th-century French silk industry. She is also author of Cristóbal Balenciaga (third edition, forthcoming 2017).


Zara Anishanslin specializes in Early American and Atlantic World History, with a focus on eighteenth-century material culture. Since 2016, she has been Assistant Professor of History and Art History at the University of Delaware where she is working on a new research project on the American Revolution. Anishanslin holds a PhD in the History of American Civilization from the University of Delaware, and held postdoctoral fellowships at Johns Hopkins University and the New-York Historical Society. Her book Portrait of a Woman in Silk: Hidden Histories of the British Atlantic World (Yale University Press, 2016) examines the worlds of four identifiable people who produced, wore, and represented silk: a London weaver, one of early modern Britain’s few women silk designers, a Philadelphia merchant’s wife, and a New



Colloque organisé par l’IHTP-CNRS & LARCA (UMR 8225) – Université Paris Diderot.


Vendredi 13 octobre 2017 / Friday Octobre 13th, 2017
IHTP, 59/61 rue Pouchet 75017 Paris

9h00: Ouverture du colloque/ Registration

9h30-11h00: Mapping Cross-Channel Textile Rivalries / Cartographie des rivalités franco-britanniques

  • Fabrice Bensimon, Lace makers between Nottingham and Calais, 1816-1860
  • Luc RojasObserver la fabrique de Coventry. Les rubaniers stéphanois à la recherche d’information
  • Courtney WilderBand Apart: Printing ‘Rainbow’ Designs for Walls and Wardrobes in Alsace and Northern England, 1819-1851

11h00-11h30: Coffee Break / Pause Café

11h30-12h30: Keynote speaker/Conférence plénière de Lesley Miller, conservatrice en chef des collections mode et textiles au Victoria & Albert Museum, Londres

12h30-14h00: Repas /Lunch

14h00-15h-00: Entente cordiale ? Aesthetic and economic circulations of embroidery /Entente Cordiale ? Les circulations esthétiques et économiques de la broderie

  • Tabitha Baker, From Lyon and Paris to London: Commercial Networks within the French Embroidery Trade and the Role of the English Gentleman Consumer (1748-1785)
  • Isa Fleischman-Heck, Manly French style versus feminine English taste – Pictorial embroideries in France and England at the end of the 18th century

15h00-16h00: Competing for cotton / La compétition du coton

  • Jessica Barker, Toile de Jouy/ Cloth of England. Copperplate Textile Printing in England and France, 1752-1820
  • Ariane Fennetaux, Franco-British Cotton Rivalries: Empire, Trade, and Technology in the 18th Century

Samedi 14 Octobre 2017 / Saturday 14th October 2017
Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8 rue Elzevir 75003 Paris

09:00-10:00: Présentation des projets étudiants / Student projects ‘Fashioning Britain’

10:00-11:30: Business Means Business: Fashion Trades and Commercial Strategies / Les affaires sont les affaires: industries de mode et strategies commerciales

  • Pierre-Henri BigerEventails et éventaillistes entre la France et l’Angleterre aux XVIII et XIXe siècles
  • Audrey MilletProtéger les dessins textiles. L’invention de la propriété industrielle comme négation du processus créatif, une compétition France-Angleterre (XVIIe-XIXe siècles)
  • Véronique Pouillard & Waleria Dorogova, Couture Limited. The Short Lived Britanisation of French Fashion

11:30-12:00: Pause Café – Coffee break

12:00-13:00: Keynote speaker / conférence plénière de Zara Anishanslin, University of Delaware

13:00-14:30: Repas/Lunch

14:30-15:30: Fashion in Miniature(s)/ Modes en miniature(s)

Presentation of the English miniatures in the collection of the Musée Cognacq Jay by Rose Marie Mousseaux, Director of the Museum / Visite thématique autour de la mode dans les miniatures anglaises de la collection du musée Cognacq-Jay avec la conservatrice du patrimoine et directrice du musée, Mme Rose-Marie Mousseaux

15:45-17:15: Embodying fashion rivalries / Rivalités incarnées

  • Elise Urbain RuanoUne figure pré-romantique ? La duchesse d’Orléans et la mode anglaise à la veille de la Révolution française
  • César ImbertUne garde-robe au service de l’Empire : l’influence vestimentaire d’Eugénie en Angleterre
  • Matthew KeagleMore than Red and White: Franco-British Reform and Military Dress in the late Ancien Régime

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